The Philippines

Our main three-week Philippines tour was extremely successful with a grand total of 145 endemics among the 323 species recorded. Highlights included the rare and critically endangered Philippine Eagle, 2 representatives of the endemic Rhabdornis family, 3 pitta species (Hooded, Red-bellied and the stunning endemic Azure-breasted), 6 endemic kingfishers including the impressive Blue-capped and Spotted Wood-Kingfishers and the rarely-seen Philippine Dwarf-Kingfisher. We also enjoyed great views of Short-crested and Celestial Monarch, Philippine Cockatoo and an amazing close encounter with a stunning male Palawan Peacock-Pheasant.

The main tour began in Luzon where after morning arrivals into Manila we transferred to Los Banos on the lower slopes of Mount Makiling, seeing Black-shouldered Kite en route and Brahminy Kite, Osprey, Common and Whiskered Terns on Laguna de Bay from our hotel. We began in the afternoon with a visit to the nearby University of the Philippines where a river running through the campus produced excellent views of the hoped-for Indigo-banded Kingfisher, with both male and female birds performing. The surrounding trees produced Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker and good numbers of Lowland White-eyes were seen.
In the late afternoon a patient wait at a nearby grassland area produced good views of Spotted Buttonquails coming out to feed on a track while Plain Bush-hens called unseen nearby. The grasslands also hosted numerous Striated Grassbirds, Bright-capped and Zitting Cisticolas, Black-and-White Triller in nearby trees and a smart Blue Rock Thrush.

The following morning we began at the forest edge making our way into the wonderful forest that remains on Mount Makiling. Our progress along the track was slow however with new birds appearing frequently. Early excitement was provided by a group of Luzon Hornbills visiting a fruiting tree. Next came scope views of Black-chinned Fruit-Dove, punk-headed Red-crested Malkohas, perched Guaibero – a cute endemic parrot, and a particularly worthwhile stop which produced our first male Philippine Trogon and the bizarre but spectacular Scale-feathered Malkoha. We also saw some of the skulkers including White-browed Shama and Grey-backed Tailorbird but a calling Luzon Bleeding-heart couldn’t be persuaded to appear.
During the morning our haul of species along the forest track included; White-eared Brown-Dove, Colasisi, Violet Cuckoo (including a striking violet male with luminous red bill), several Black-and-White Trillers, Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Luzon Balicassiao, Stripe-headed Rhabdornis, Luzon Blue-headed Fantail, wintering Ashy Minivets, Lowland and Yellowish White-eyes, Buzzing and Striped Flowerpeckers, Lemon-throated Leaf-Warbler, Purple-throated, Flaming and Handsome Sunbirds.
Returning to the forest edge a large bare tree was host to Coleto, Coppersmith Barbet and three petite Philippine Falconets making frequent hunting sorties for draogonflies.
In the afternoon we enjoyed many of these birds again and a wander in the nearby botanical gardens added Rusty-breasted Cuckoo and Philippine Drongo Cuckoo. As dusk approached Spotted Wood Kingfishers became vocal and a pair showed well at the forest edge as Philippine Boobooks called at nightfall but were strangely quiet thereafter and we didn’t managed to see any tonight.

The next morning we drove higher up the mountain. The lush forest here had been battered somewhat by recent typhoons but was still productive; we had our first good views of Grey-backed Tailorbirds after hearing and glimpsing several, a smart male White-browed Shama sang from an open perch and we bumped into another stunning Spotted Wood Kingfisher in the forest. The often elusive Luzon Blue-headed Fantail was seen again as were several Red-crested Malkoha and our first Philippine Coucal.
A calling Luzon Bleeding-heart couldn’t be attracted so we scrambled up a nearby slope to get closer but managed only brief flight views of this shy ground-dweller.
Making our way back down through the forest one of the calling Philippine Hawk Cuckoos was attracted in and a stunning male Flaming Sunbird again fed on their favoured red flowers low by the roadside. In exactly the same place as the previous day, a Luzon Bleeding-heart was again calling from its favoured steep sided gully but on this occasion it surprised us all by responding to playback by wandering out into the valley bottom, although sadly it was typically shy and flew back into cover as soon as it noticed our presence.
At the forest edge, Philippine Falconets were again utilising their favourite lookout and 2 Ospreys were again over the lake next to the hotel as we took a break from the midday heat.
Our afternoon explorations of the lower parts of the forest were again productive with Red-crested Malkoha particularly in evidence along with two shyer Scale-feathered Malkoha, a single Philippine Drongo Cuckoo, Bicoloured and Pygmy Flowerpeckers and a spectacular group of at least 15 Luzon Hornbills. Waiting until dusk we were very well rewarded as the silhouette of a Philippine Scops Owl floated by in response to our tape and was soon relocated for excellent views of this large scops owl brilliantly lit in our spot-light.

The following morning we transferred back to Manila and took a flight to the distinctly tropical island of Palawan. First stop was the seafront at Garceliano beach on the outskirts of the capital Puerto Princessa where we arrived just in the knick of time as the rising tide hadn’t yet pushed off the feeding waders. A variety of egrets included close views of Chinese Egret and we had a nice comparison with nearby Pacific Reef Egrets. A good assortment of shorebirds here included Grey and Asian Golden Plovers, Kentish Plover, Greater and Lesser Sandplovers, Whimbrel, Ruddy Turnstone, Common Redshank, Red-necked Stint and Grey-tailed Tattlers. Immense orange and blue Stork-billed Kingfishers posed in the mangroves as several Palawan Swiftlets were noted feeding overhead - our first island endemic.
After a delicious lunch we began the drive towards Sabang albeit with several birding stops. The first break in an area of mangroves, produced several Purple-throated and Copper-throated Sunbirds and Dollarbirds nearby. The next stop was next to a forested valley and walking along the roadsides gave some great birding. Our first of many of the island endemics appeared with Blue Paradise Flycatcher, White-vented Shama, Sulphur-bellied Bulbul, Shelley’s Sunbird, Palawan Flowerpecker, Pygmy Flowerpecker (here of the distinct palawanorum subspecies), Yellow-throated Leafbird and fine perched views of the near-endemic Blue-naped Parrot which have disappeared from most of the archipelago but are still quite common here. We also saw several species found only on Palawan within the Philippines such as Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Dark-throated Oriole, Common Iora, Grey-cheeked Bulbul, Ashy Drongo and Rufous-tailed Tailorbird and Brown-backed Needletails overhead. Walking further down the road we added Bar-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, Asian Drongo Cuckoo, Oriental Honey Buzzard, yet more Blue-naped Parrots, Eastern Hill Myna, Asian Fairy Bluebird and two distinctive birds which although ‘officially’ regarded as subspecies are widely regarded as full species in their own right; Palawan Drongo and Palawan Crow, both of which show plumage, voice and habitat preference far removed from their nearest relatives. One of everyone’s most want birds on Palawan is the truly spectacular Palawan Peacock Pheasant, this bird has become much easier in recent years thanks to a rather ‘tame’ bird inside the park but genuine ‘wild’ birds have remained an elusive target for visiting birders. Consequently as we settled down by the roadside to look for a calling bird in the valley below expectation were not high, but amazingly the bird surprised us all by wandering out into the open among the bamboo below us allowing good views before disappearing again into the valley! We followed this with amazing views of a group of 4 Great Slaty Woodpeckers as these huge birds noisily danced around one another in the tree tops with wings spread, although we were hard pushed to decide whether it was an act of aggression or affection!
We ended the day with a spot of night-birding and with the calling Hooded Pittas giving way to a distant Spotted Wood Owl, Large-tailed Nightjars were the first to come out to play, hawking close overhead. As darkness fell the weird and wonderful screams and whistles of Palawan Frogmouths began to emanate from the surrounding forests and it wasn’t long before we were admiring one of these bizarre hairy creatures in the spotlight. Heading a little deeper into the forest a patient wait was rewarded by an equally bizarre ‘crackling’ which announced the presence of a Palawan Scops Owl nearby and again we were soon admiring this large scops-owl peering back at us from close range with piercing orange eyes. After a highly successful session, with both Palawan endemic nightbirds seen extremely well, we headed for our lodge at Sabang, our home for the next 2 nights.
At dawn the next morning we took a boat from Sabang along the coastline of Saint Paul National Park with a spectacular view of the huge limestone cliffs and forest as far as the eye could see. Our first stop was at the ‘underground river’ for which the park is justly famous as this is one of the longest subterranean rivers in the world. The area around the ranger station here gives great birding and in addition to more great views of many of the endemics seen the previous day, we also added a cute party of Ashy-headed Babblers bouncing around in the undergrowth, Tabon Scrubfowl, Olive-winged Bulbul and Bold-striped Tit Babblers. It wasn’t too long before the star of the show appeared and we all enjoyed point blank views of the stunning male Palawan Peacock Pheasant in all his glory; striking white face markings, emerald hued crest, gold spangled rump and tail with blue ‘eyes’ and silky black underparts contrasting with vivid iridescent blue mantle and wing feathers all combining in one of the rarest and most spectacular pheasants in the world. This particular individual is much habituated to humans but took a particular liking to Leif who could be seen running along the trail with this feisty bird in hot pursuit!

Talking the boat again we headed back along the coast to another ranger station in search of another of the star birds, the forest dwelling Falcated Ground Babbler. As soon as we reached a suitable area the birds could be heard duetting but try as we might we couldn’t tempt them closer so we took plan B and headed into the forest. The birds continued singing but it was a long and patient search before we finally located them, to their credit they did then oblige, with a pair singing from atop a fallen log and they were definitely worth the effort and long wait! Other birds in this area were a nice male Shelley’s Sunbird singing from high in the canopy and a diminutive Rufous-backed Kigfisher which sat quietly in the understory. Walking back along the coast a beautiful deserted beach played host to a pair of the rapidly declining Malaysian Plover and we enjoyed nice scope views in this wonderful setting.
After lunch back at our resort we again spent the afternoon birding back along the road in the direction of Puerto Princessa. Here we enjoyed many of the previous day’s birds including Blue Paradise Flycatcher, several White-vented Shama, Asian Drongo Cuckoo, Black-throated Oriole, Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Eastern Hill Mynas and an immature Changeable Hawk Eagle. We also found a nice female Palawan Blue Flycatcher, a Striped Flowerpecker accompanying the commoner Palawan and Pygmy, then finally after much searching, a smart yellow, black and white Palawan Tit feeding right above our heads. A viewpoint overlooking a forested limestone crag gave nice views of several Thick-billed Green-Pigeons while the screeching calls of Blue-headed Racquet-tails drew our attention and we had several views as the flew around the limestone rock before circling directly overhead with racquets clearly on show. We finished the day with several Large-tailed Nightjars feeding at dusk over the paddies adjacent to the resort.

After our great success the previous day some opted for another morning visit to the ‘underground river’ but this time with an amazing boat trip into this underground wilderness, home to thousands of bats and swiftlets. The rest of us meanwhile headed for the forest. Palawan Hornbill was still noticeably absent but among the now expected species we also saw yet another ‘wild’ male Palawan Peacock Pheasant, a Tabon Scrubfowl and particularly nice views of Blue Paradise Flycatchers. The area around our hotel also had Thick-billed Green-Pigeon, White-breasted Waterhen and Pintail Snipe. In the afternoon we headed back again to Puerto Princessa with several birding stops including a Crested Serpent Eagle and Grey-faced Buzzard circling together, Palawan Tits which were still performing in the same spot as the previous day and a small group of Fiery Minivets - a new addition.
The next morning we headed south from Puerto Princessa to bird the Balsahan Trail within the Iwahig Penal Colony. The forest here is more secondary than at Saint Paul and this is the favoured habitat for our key target bird - the endemic Melodious Babbler. It wasn’t long before we heard the sweet, mournful song of the babblers and we all soon enjoyed views of the birds as they fed and sang in their favoured vine tangles. Continuing on along the trail we finally, after much effort, saw our first Palawan Hornbill, when a considerate bird performed a nice fly-past allowing the whole group to connect. Continuing along the trail a Pechora Pipit was flushed from the trail and perched briefly but vanished again into the undergrowth before everyone could enjoy views. As we enjoyed a charming pair of Ashy-headed Babblers feeding close to the trail we heard the calls of the islands other endemic babbler which had given us such a run around at Saint Paul. This individual was much more obliging and we got great views of the Falcated Ground Babbler singing strongly right by the side of the trail. Further exploration produced excellent views of two Hooded Pittas, equally stunning Rufous-backed Kingfishers, Common Flameback, Fiery Minivets, two more obliging Melodious Babblers, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Bold-striped Tit Babbler, Asian Fairy Bluebird, a perched Crested Goshawk and some of the now familiar Palawan endemics such as Yellow-throated Leafbird, Sulphur-bellied Bulbul and Blue Paradise Flycatchers.
Leaving the forest we spent some time birding the paddyfields and fish ponds along the entrance road to the penal colony. Shorebirds were abundant with Black-winged Stilts, Redshank, Greenshank, Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Lesser and Greater Sandplover, Asiatic Golden Plover, Red-necked Stint and Long-toed Stint all present. Swinhoes Snipe provided an identification challenge but obliged with nice scope views and good views in flight when they also gave their distinctive calls. A single Moorhen and two White-browed Crakes were found creeping along the reedy edge of a well vegetated pond.
Soon it was time to head south, stopping at a roadside marsh for Purple Heron and Yellow Bittern before continuing to our overnight stop at a beach resort in the small coastal town of Narra. Just offshore from Narra lies Rasa Island where dedicated conservation work has secured the islands as one of the last remaining strongholds for the endangered Philippine Cockatoo. In the afternoon we boarded boats and headed out to the island, stopping initially at a watchtower on the south side of the island where some were fortunate to see a handful of cockatoos perched in distant trees. The mangroves near the quay also produced several Copper-throated Sunbirds and a flyover Osprey. Since the weather was fine we set off again in the boats and headed around the north side of the island to the cockatoo roost area and spent some time watching the birds coming into their favoured sleeping trees, finishing the day with a grand total of more than 50 birds. As dark approached we landed again on the island, close to a small settlement, where the secondary scrub and coconut trees provide ideal habitat for the Mantanani Scops Owl – a small island specialist which is restricted to small islands in the Philippines archipelago and a few islands off the north coast of Borneo. Unfortunately they were not very cooperative tonight and we left with just a few calling birds to show for our efforts.
The next morning we departed early arriving at a strategic area of roadside forest just after dawn. Here we were greeted by a smart group of four Palawan Hornbills perched high in the treetops and a short stroll along the roadside found Yellow-throated Leafbird. It was not long before we heard the song of our main target coming from a bamboo filled gully so we made our way carefully into position nearby and we fortunate to soon locate the singing bird – an elusive Palawan Flycatcher which nevertheless gave some nice views, and complete a clean-sweep of possible Palawan endemics. Given our early success we decided to spend some time in the paddyfields closer to Puerto Princessa town finding three Pink-necked Green Pigeons, several White-breasted Waterhen and Moorhen, and single White-browed and Slaty-breasted Crakes.

Our mid-morning flight back to Manila was delayed giving us a tight connection for our flight to Cagayan de Oro but we made it with no problems, even finding time a quick take-away lunch at Manila airport. From Cagayan de Oro airport we were whisked south into Bukidnon province, stopping off in Damitan village where our luggage was loaded onto a convoy of horses for the trek into the Kitanglad Mountains.
The walk up to camp produced Black-shouldered Kite, smart black-headed nasutus Long-tailed Shrikes, Striated and Tawny Grassbirds, and on the higher slopes, large groups of wintering Eye-browed Thrushes. As we arrived at dusk a Bukidnon Woodcock was heard in roding flight overhead but we didn’t manage views.
After dinner we ventured into the nearby forest and with patience and some gentle coaxing we were soon enjoying a bizarre Philippine Frogmouth perfectly framed in the spotlight. Mindanao Scops Owl, Giant Scops Owl and Philippine Nightjar were all heard.

The following morning a roding Bukidnon Woodcock heralded a fine dawn so after an early breakfast we set off up the mountain eager to take advantage of the good weather conditions. Our first new birds were endemic Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis perched conspicuously atop dead snags and shortly after we found an excellent flowering tree attracting a host of birds and we quickly saw our first Olive-capped Flowerpeckers and Grey-hooded Sunbirds amoung the feeding birds with a smart Black-and-Cinnamon Fantail nearby. More open grassy areas produced Paddyfield Pipit, several noisy Tawny Grassbirds, single Striated Grassbird, a fly-by Philippine Cuckoo Dove and several Short-tailed Glossy Starlings.
A short stop in a known Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher territory drew an immediate vocal response and after a little time the male bird flew in to investigate us, perching at close range for just a few seconds before disappearing back into the forested valley.
As we reached a nice lookout at least four Apo Mynas were found feeding on fruiting trees and we were able to study these unique mynas at leisure, looking rather bizaare with their long-tails, large yellow eye-skin and punk-style hair cuts.
As we reached the higher parts of the mountain, we entered some nice forest patches, finding a small group of Yellow-breasted Fruit Doves, shy Island Thrushes and a Great-eared Nightjar which flushed from almost under our feet and circled us before dropping back into the forest again. Amethyst Brown Dove and Mindanao Montane Racquet-tail were both only heard but after some time one of the remaining high altitude specialties appeared – an Apo Sunbird which perched just above our heads.
Throughout the day mixed flocks provided some exciting birding with a fantastic variety of species; Mountain White-eye was by far the most abundant species with Elegant Tit, Sulphur-billed Nuthatch and Yellow-bellied Whistler were all regular and we found smaller numbers of Little Pied Flycatchers, Mountain Leaf Warblers and a single wintering Mugimaki Flycatcher. New endemics in some of the flocks including Rufous-headed Tailorbird, Brown Tit-Babbler, groups of Cinnamon Ibon, Black-masked White-eyes, McGregor’s Cuckooshrike, a single White-cheeked Bullfinch and a major surprise in the form of a Whiskered Flowerpecker – a rare endemic which is normally found only in the mountains further south on Mindanao.

Having located all the expected montane endemics we dropped down a short way in order to enjoy our picnic lunch at one of the viewpoints providing panoramic views of the surrounding forest slopes. This proved a great move as we quickly located two more White-cheeked Bullfinches in the nearby trees and moments later our local guide Danny called out that he had a large raptor flying overhead and we all looked up to by stunned by the amazing sight of an adult Philippine Eagle passing right overhead before droping down into a distant isolate valley. The bird was clutching a Philippine Colugo – one of their main prey items – in its talons which it was presumable taking to a hidden nest in that far off valley.
The remainder of the day was spent scanning from the viewpoints in the hope that the Philippine Eagle might reappear. It didn’t, but other raptors included the distinctive philippensis Oriental Honey-Buzzard (a likely future split), Philippine Serpent Eagle and a Changeable Hawk Eagle.
Walking back in the late afternoon, high pitched calls drew our attention to a Red-eared Parrotfinch skulking in a thicket. This bird was typically difficult to see but after 30 minutes scrambling around on our knees and imitating the calls we all managed at least some sort of views of the bird. Further down we finished with nice looks at two Mindanao Hornbills which were calling from the highest trees on the nearby valley sides.
At dusk we waited in a large clearing near the lodge and in the fading light had great views of both Great-eared and Philippine Nightjars. Unfortunately the hoped-for Bukidnon Woodcock didn’t appear this evening but some good compensation came from a ghostly-white Eastern Grass Owl which floated over the clearing as we waited.

Since some of the group had missed the eagle the previous day, much of our time today was spent at the viewpoints on the mountain. The walk up to the viewpoint gave two Mountain Shrikes for some, a single Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis and two Mindanao Hornbills. In the small forest patches en route we found a White-browed Shortwing, Rufous-headed Tailorbirds, a skulking Long-tailed Ground Warbler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, McGregor’s Cuckooshrike and a Rusty-breasted Cuckoo.
Our watching didn’t produce the hoped for eagle but we did find two Oriental Honey-Buzzards, Philippine Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle and Peregrine.
Although raptors were the main focus we also added our first fly-over Mindanao Montane Racquet-tail have only heard then the previous day, many Philippine Swiftlets, a single Plain Martin and awesome views of Purple Needletails which ‘buzzed’ us at high speed and very close range on several occasions. Fruiting trees near the viewpoint attracted Philippines Cuckoo Dove, some very smart Yellow-breasted Fruit Doves and a Mugimaki Flycatcher. We also saw two White-cheeked Bullfinch and a few Apo Mynas which appeared nearby, and on the walk back down to the lodge a ‘green-bullet’ fly-by Red-eared Parrotfinch.
At dusk the lodge clearing gave views of Philippine Nightjar while those who returned to the clearing above the lodge were lucky enough to see two Bukidnon Woodcock leaving their daytime roost. After dinner we set off again into the forest, this time in pursuit of a calling Mindanao Scops Owl. The owl seemed distant from the lodge but as we picked our way along the trail we gradually got closer and closer until we tracked the bird to a large clump of dense bamboo. Settling into place we called back to the bird which almost immediately went quiet. We waited patiently and before long the bird called again, this time clearly closer and within moments it was sitting in our spot-light, perched brilliantly in the open on a thin bamboo stem. There it stayed calling contentedly as we enjoyed this tiny but beautifully patterned owl before it flew again to resume calling from a different perch. This owl is typically found at much higher altitudes on this mountain and is notoriously difficult to see so we were extremely fortunate to see one so well and so close to our lodge.

The next day further raptor watching produced two Oriental Honey Buzzards, Philippine Serpent Eagle, Peregrine and an Oriental Hobby.
The condition were more overcast today and this was clearly favoured by the Mindanao Montane Racquet-tails with more than 15 logged by the end of the day including one bird perched nicely in the scope.
Other birds seen in the vicinity of the viewpoint were Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove, Philippine Cuckoo Dove, Mindanao Hornbill, at least five Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis, Rufous-headed Tailorbird, Long-tailed Ground Warbler, Apo Myna and the overwintering Mugimaki Flycatcher. Top prize however undoubtedly went to no less than three Bukidnon Woodcocks which were flushed together from a tiny path-side pond, one of which landed on the trail to give excellent views.
Those who opted for a more leisurely day close to the lodge also added Whiskered Treeswift, Buzzing Flowerpecker, Philippine Leaf Warbler, McGregor’s Cuckooshrike, montanus Greater Flameback and Philippine Fairy Bluebird.
In the gathering gloom a calling Philippine Hawk Cuckoo was seen nicely right next to the lodge and after dinner the Mindanao Scops Owl was again seen, this time in Bamboo right next to the lodge!
We departed our camp after breakfast the next morning, retracing our steps to Damitan village before making the long drive around the north-east coast of Mindanao, arriving in the town of Bislig in the late afternoon where we checked into the ‘Paper Country Inn’, our home for the next four nights.

We set off well before dawn the next way, utilising a Filipino ‘jeepney’, the only transport suitable for navigating the rough and bumpy logging tracks within the concession. Our aim this morning was to travel far into the heart of the concession to a good area of forest which has thus far remained more or less untouched. The morning began on an amazing high when a Celestial Monarch was heard giving its distinctive three-note whistle from far down the slope below us. The bird continued to call strongly but it was some time before it finally came up to investigate us. When it did appear the effort was well worthwhile – the bird, a gorgeous male, perched right over our heads, a cobalt blue flycatcher with lime green eye-ring, blue bill, and a long powder-blue crest draped over the nape – quite simply one of the most stunning endemics on the islands and we were fortunate enough to see it within hours of our time here!
As we made our way further along the track a sharp high pitched whistle demanded attention and we were soon watching an amazing Philippine Dwarf Kingfisher perched just in front of us – this is one of the most difficult of all Philippine endemics to see and this one amazed even the leader by giving such amazing views.
It wasn’t long before we started to encounter some nice mixed feeding flocks which soon produced a great variety of species; Blue Fantail and Philippine Oriole were familiar from our time on Bohol but the Black-crowned Babblers of Bohol were replaced here by Rusty-crowned Babblers and they were joined by smaller numbers of Mindanao Pygmy Babblers, an island endemic following a recent split from the ‘Pygmy Babbler’. Yellowish Bulbuls, Philippine Leafbirds, Rufous-fronted Tailorbird, Philippine Leaf Warbler also joined the flocks occasionally but the highlights were amazing orange-hued Mindanao Paradise Flycatchers, yet another Celestial Monarch (this time ‘only’ a female) and on two occasions Short-crested Monarchs appeared, completing the duo of endemic monarchs which are always a major target for visiting birders.
One of the canopy flocks produced distant views of the rather scarce Black-bibbed Cuckooshrike and a small party of Scarlet Minivets, here of the race gonzalesi which with their distinctive calls and plumage seem certain to be split from other Philippine and mainland Asia races once the complexities of the group are unravelled.
Flowering trees along the track attracted Metallic-winged and Handsome Sunbirds, Orange-bellied and Pygmy Flowerpeckers and several Naked-faced Spiderhunters.
Approaching a high point in the track, the load booming calls of Pink-bellied Imperial Pigeons which had accompanied us for almost the entire walk became much louder and careful scanning soon picked out two birds perched in the treetops at eye-level where we could enjoy excellent scope views of this impressive bird which has sadly become very scare is recent years due to hunting pressures.
We walked on eager to reach a gully where we had often seen a pair of Blue-capped Wood Kingfishers in previous years. It was already hot by the time we arrived but the birds soon began calling from deep in the shady valley below. Unfortunately, however hard we tried we couldn’t tempt them any closer so the only option was to scramble down into the gully below. This paid dividend as the birds were quickly located, with three birds, 2 adults and an immature, giving nice close views and performing well for the photographers amoungst us.
As we made our way back to the jeepney a Black-chinned Fruit Dove was flushed but quickly relocated for excellent views and we finished the morning with fantastic views of Rufous Hornbill; a family party of three birds appeared and gave both perched and flight views of this, arguably the most beautiful of the endemic hornbills in the Philippines.
After lunch we made our way to a different area stopping for no less than four Philippine Falconets perched on road-side tress and a smart Black-faced Coucal. In the afternoon we visited a different road where although the forest was very quiet we managed to tape in a male Little Slaty Flycatcher but it only gave brief views. Some time was spent in a nearby forest clearing which was very productive; a perched Besra allowed a close approach, Blue-crowned Racquet-tail gave nice views and hornbills included at least four Mindanao Hornbills and a nice flock of three Writhed Hornbills which completed our possible PICOP hornbill set as early as day one. We also saw a few Philippine Green Pigeons, yet more Philippine Falconets, and our first Philippine Needletails which instantly became a favourite as the patrolled at high speed on the most incredible ‘butter-knife’ shaped wings.

Making our way back towards Bislig we stopped first at a small road-side pool which has for many years been home to a pair of Silvery Kingfishers. As usual the birds didn’t disappoint and their high pitched calls soon drew attention to this smart bird perched on dead branches at the edges of the pond. We spent some time studying this lovely bird with its blue-black plumage highlighted with silvery spangles on the head and wing coverts, all contrasting with bright white throat, belly and stripe along the back. All of this topped with amazing bright-red feet – an amazing bird which the field guide illustration doesn’t even begin to do justice.
Be began the next morning in an area of secondary forest where Everett’s White-eyes, Purple-throated and Metallic-winged Sunbirds, and Brown Tit Babbler were all common. It wasn’t too long before the whistled song of our target species was heard from a nearby forest patch. We made our way careful into the forest and soon enjoyed some good looks as a smart male Little Slaty Flycatcher as it continually circled us in the surrounding understory. The remainder of the morning was spent along various trails where we found an excellent selection of birds. Highlights were undoubtedly the pittas; firstly a roadside stop for a calling Hooded Pitta didn’t produce views but while searching we heard a Red-bellied Pitta calling in the adjacent forest. Without much persuasion we followed the calls an eventually succeeded in getting some reasonable views as it circled around us. Even better was to come later in the morning when a calling Azure-breasted Pitta was located in a nice patch of Limestone forest, this bird was much better behaved, and eventually came very close, allowing fantastic views of its azure blue underparts, contrasting with blood-red belly and dark green mantle as it called from close by at eye-level! Other new birds were a rather brief Amethyst Brown Dove and nice views of Black-headed Tailorbird. Other highlights were Philippine Leaf Warbler, Blue Fantail, Mindanao Drongo, Yellowish Bulbul, Black-faced Coucal and White-eared Brown Dove. More open areas also produced Coppersmith Barbet, Philippine Coucal, Philippine Drongo Cuckoo, Philippine Oriole, Coleto and Mindanao Hornbill, with Philippine Serpent Eagle and Philippine Needletails overhead.
We finished the day with a few hours birding around the abandoned airfield close to Bislig town which was teeming with birds as usual. The grassy margins were favoured by Paddyfield Pipits and large numbers of Eastern Yellow Wagtails and we located no less then four Blue-breasted Quails including a pair which were spotted trying to sneak into a tiny clump of grasses to hide and were subsequently gently pushed into the open by the leaders allowing prolonged views of these shy birds for the whole group. The taller grasses of the surrounding marsh held Philippine Coucal, Plaintive Cuckoo, Striated Grassbirds and Oriental Reed Warblers while the shorter sedges were favoured by Bright-capped and Zitting Cisticolas, Black-headed Munia and a single Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler. Pintail Snipe was flushed from a damp corner and by using the jeepney as an elevated hide we located Philippine Duck and Wandering Whistling Duck on the marshy ponds together with a variety of herons and egrets including Javan Pond Heron and single Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns.
We finished the day with great views of two Eastern Grass Owls hunting the marshes, sometimes at close range.

In the evening we met up again with Max and Dan who having missed the Philippine Eagles on Kitanglad had taken the offer of a hastily arranged trip to a very recently discovered nest site elsewhere in the Kitanglad mountain range and returned suitably thrilled having enjoyed great views of the adults and a young chick, although they were distinctly envious of our success in their absence.
On our final full day we returned again to the areas which had been so successful on our first day in the hope that we might pick up our few remaining misses along with those missed by Max and Dan in their absence. We began earlier on this occasion allowing for some predawn night-birding. This was extremely successful and we wasted no time in attracting in our targets; firstly a Chocolate Boobook - a recent split from the Brown Boobook Complex and a near-endemic to the Philippines – which called loudly from a nearby dead tree allowing prolonged views, then a rather more secretive Mindanao Boobook which approached us silently but was spotted flying into the high canopy of a nearby tree where it was located in the spotlight for all to enjoy.

Arriving at our forest track we kept our fingers crossed that we might be able to locate some of the excellent species that we had seen on the first day. Amazingly this day was almost a rerun of that success… and more! The male Celestial Monarch performed right on cue at the selected spot, the Philippine Dwarf Kingfisher was seen extremely well perched in the same area (the nesting hole of these birds was found nearby shortly after we left PICOP), we had stunning views of a male Short-crested Monarch and the family of three Rufous Hornbills again put on a great show. We also added some species not seen before including a Rufous-lored Kingfisher which defied their often elusive nature by singing from the bare branches at the top of a big tree, a delightful group of Streaked Ground Babblers which responded well to the tape giving excellent close views and we finally had the excellent close views of Amethyst Brown Dove which we desired. These we just the highlights of course and we also saw some great feeding flocks mostly comprising species seen previous but Yellow-wattled Bulbul was significant as our first sighting of the species on Mindanao. Our drive through the concession again produced several perched Philippine Falconets but also several Oriental Magpie Robins, amazingly our first sightings of the species during the main tour. We again saw Philippine Serpent Eagles and our first ‘Barred’ Honey-Buzzard which is particularly significant in light of recent studies showing that the endemic races in the Philippines are distinct from those in Indonesia and should be treated as a separate, endemic species Steere’s Honey-Buzzard.
Our afternoon staking our the forest clearing didn’t produce the racquet-tails seen previously but we did see Philippine Needletails, Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, White-bellied Woodpecker, Greater Flamebacks and impressive numbers of hornbills including an amazing flock of 10 Writhed Hornbills. A flight of pigeons passing overhead in the late afternoon included two rare Spotted Imperial Pigeons among the commoner Green Imperial Pigeons. We finished the day with another addition in the form of a Blue-backed Parrot heard calling as we drove home and located perched conspicuously on top of a dead tree. In the evening we had a particularly scrumptious meal to celebrate a successful stay at PICOP but more importantly Stella’s birthday which gave us a fine excuse to indulge in a particularly impressive birthday cake!
The following morning we had just enough time for a few hours of birding and this proved very profitable with excellent birds appearing right up until the last moment. There were many fruiting trees which attracted not only good numbers of Guaibero but also three Blue-crowned Racquet-tails – a huge bonus for Max and Dan who had missed them previously. The fruits also attracted Mindanao Hornbills, Philippine Green Pigeons and a smart Yellow-breasted fruit Dove. Philippine Leafbird finally appeared on cue for those who missed them on the first day and other highlights were Black-and-White Triller, two Silvery Kingfishers on a small river and another stunning Azure-breasted Pitta finished our stay at PICOP in style. It was time to take to the road again for the drive south to Davao city and a flight back to Manila ready for the next leg of the tour.

We departed early next morning (as always!) and made good time, arriving at Subic Bay in time for breakfast just after dawn. Keen to begin our birding we headed straight for a secluded area of the former military base, exploring an intriguing network of roads which criss-cross the forest with abandoned bunkers lining the way. Our drive produced a brief fly-over Green Racquet-tail and rather better views of Coleto and several Whiskered Treeswifts. A productive track into the forest was clearly a woodpecker hot-spot and we found a single Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, two haematribon Greater Flamebacks, and two each of White-bellied and Sooty Woodpeckers. Other birds were a little quiet but we did find some Philippine Green Pigeons, Black-naped Orioles, White-eared Brown Doves, Philippine Falconet, Red-crested Malkoha and two additions to the main tour in the form of an elusive Philippine Tailorbird and small groups of rather more showy Blackish Cuckoo-shrikes calling noisily in the canopy.
A stop in a well wooded suburb on our way back into town was rewarded with excellent close views of Luzon Hornbill, hawking Blue-throated Bee-eaters and an unusually cooperative Colasisi perched low down in a nearby pine tree.
Venturing out again in the afternoon, Rufous Coucals calling by the roadside brought us to a rapid stop and we enjoyed good views of 2 groups skulking in the roadside vegetation. The stop proved even more fortuitous when a gorgeous pair of Green Racquet-tails was brilliantly spotted by Stella sitting quietly in a nearby tree fork and we enjoyed quite wonderful views of these spoon-tailed parrots as they loving preened one another.
Continuing on to the same location as the morning we found some good numbers of Philippine Green Pigeons giving nice views in the telescope, Luzon Hornbills, yet more raucous Blue-naped Parrots, Luzon Hawk Eagle and a smart Chinese Goshawk which flew in and perched nearby. Philippine Falconets were again in attendance, surveying the area from dead snags and scanning of other tree tops found a Stripe-headed Rhabdornis, Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike, female Black-and-White Triller and a large flock of wintering Ashy Minivets. A single Scale-feathered Malkoha betrayed its presence with high pitched whistled calls and was seen loping high in the canopy.
The following morning we again made an early start with a pair of Philippine Boobooks feeding on moths attracted to the nearby street lamps and Philippine Scops Owls were vocal but typically elusive. Arriving in the forest, Great-eared Nightjar hawked overhead while Philippine Boobooks, Philippine Scops Owls and Spotted Wood Kingfishers were again calling but remained hidden. As dawn broke and the sun began to rise birds were all around and we found our last two major targets at the site; firstly the distinctive fluid calls of White-lored Orioles which were located high in the nearby trees but later gave better views when they dropped into a nearby fruiting tree to feed. Next up was a Luzon White-fronted Tit sat high in the bare branches on a nearby tree which stayed just long enough for everyone to enjoy scope views before disappearing once more. Other birds on show during our early morning session were Philippine Falconets, Philippine Green Pigeon, several Luzon Hornbills, White-bellied Woodpecker, Greater Flameback, two Blackish Cuckooshrikes accompanying the more numerous Bar-bellied Cuckooshrikes, Coleto and noisy Luzon Balicassiao. Colasisi, Guaibero and Blue-naped Parrots all gave colourful fly-overs and a calling Green Racquet-tail was taped in and gave fine scope views perched overhead. After breakfast the remainder of the day the day was taken with the long drive north through Luzon before cutting up into the Cordillera Mountains and the Banaue town, justly renowned for the spectacular rice terraces carved into the nearby hillsides.

The flowing day at Mount polis, we arrived at dawn and spent the first few hours of relative cool, birding the roadside down from the pass. Activity was excellent and we were soon picking up our first endemics, mostly Luzon Bush Warbler and Chestnut-faced Babbler but we also found a few Green-backed Whistlers feeding quietly in the stunted montane forest. We also saw several Island Thrushes and many Mountain Leaf Warblers, both represented here by distinct subspecies new to us and many flocks contained Elegant Tits, Mountain Tailorbirds, Mountain Verditer Flycatchers, Mountain White-eyes and Metallic-winged Sunbirds. A single Flame-breasted Fruit Dove took flight with loud wing-clapping flights but only gave brief glimpses before disappearing back into the forest. Continuing down the road we reached some more open grassy areas which are home to one of the Philippines least know endemics – the Benguet Bush Warbler. It was not long before we heard them as this is certainly their favoured habitat, but as is typical of this family they were particularly skulking and despite hearing at least 4 birds over the next hour, we only managed glimpses of a single bird.

As the temperature began to rise, bird activity along the road became slow so we headed further down the road seeing two White’s Thrushes feeding along the damper, shaded road verges. Continuing on, we arrived at the picturesque village of Bay-yo nestled on the steep valley sides and surrounded by beautifully preserved rice terraces. Here we made our way down the steep steps below the village to arrive at the fast flowing mountain river below. We soon found our main target – the endemic Luzon Water-Redstart feeding on insects along the boulder strewn river. We stayed some time here, enjoying a long lunch on the river bank and great close views of a pair of water-redstarts as they fed right alongside us. Also here we found a pair of Citrine Canary Flycatchers, a Luzon Blue-headed Fantail and another White’s Thrush in the damp overgrown fields nearby. Returning in the afternoon to the pass we found the birding slow but excitement was provided by a nice wintering Siberian Rubythroat and in the late afternoon we located a nice pair of Mountain Shrikes which gave excellent views in the perfect afternoon light. We finished the day with a confiding Long-tailed Ground Warbler which came in to playback giving brief glimpses as it crept mouse-like around us in the long grass.
An earlier start the following morning saw us arrive in the dark but unfortunately none of the calling Luzon Scops Owls where close enough to the road for us to have a chance at seeing them. Birding along the road again produced many of the previous day’s birds including the ubiquitous Luzon Bush Warblers and Chestnut-faced Babblers. A single Green-backed Whistler was again located and we saw no less than four White’s Thrushes. New birds for us were a small group of Olive-backed Pipits feeding in the cultivated plots near the pass, a skulking White-browed Shortwing by the roadside and best of all a group of four White-cheeked Bullfinches.
Moving down again to the open grassy slopes we finally managed some good views of the elusive Benguet Bush-Warbler and a Long-tailed Ground Warbler feeding right by the roadside.
Returning again to Bay-yo for lunch the Luzon Water-Redstarts entertained us once again and our long lunch stop here also produced Common Kingfisher, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Scale-feathered Malkoha and a fly-over Crested Goshawk.

This drew to an end this enjoyable and extremely successful main tour and the following day some of us parted company with Leif and Dan continuing north to finish the trip in the remote Sierra Madre Mountains as the rest of the party returned to Manila to connect with international flights.